I originally thought it was a parasitic draw from the former owner’s led light kit. As the light kit was not working properly, I removed it from the equation, bringing the only aftermarket wiring down to the Witchdoctors LED converter for rear LED tail light.
When I tested the stator originally I saw that across AB, AC, BC I was getting a consistent .03 or .3 resistance. I know that those numbers need to be very similar across each winding and since it was, I determined, at the time, that it was sound. I also tested to make sure that it wasn’t gounding out, and it passed. I tested the rectifier, and here is where I screwed up. The forward/positive bias tested properly, the reverse/negative bias tested properly, but what i didn’t test until after the fact was the forward/positive bias with the probes switched. That’s where, all of a sudden I didn’t get a reading and I should have. I then tested the stator with the bike running, which was a task in and of itself, only to find out that the stator was barely putting out any voltage at all and when everything was connected back together properly, the battery was at 12.6v and dropping, even with the throttle up. It would every so often jump to 14.4v but would quickly drop back to 12.5v. This 14.4v was a reading I had seen much earlier in the diagnosis and where I screwed up was not leaving the meter on long enough to realize there was an issue and that the 14.4v was not consistent.
I removed the stator from the bike to visually inspect it to find out that it is not in the best shape. Corrosion on every winding terminal and in other areas as well. I have since purchased a new rectifier and stator and I am awaiting their arrival this week. I will be back with more information, though I am wondering how important voltage is on fuel injected bikes. My impression is that it is very important, especially as it relates to keeping proper fuel pressure to the injectors. Maybe the charging system issues are what is causing the rough idle and the stalling. Time will tell.