Community Forums

Find answers, ask questions, and connect with Victory enthusiasts around the world.

Home Forums 2002-2007 Model Years 2007 Victory Hammer Stalls/Pops/Rough Idle

  • 2007 Victory Hammer Stalls/Pops/Rough Idle

    Posted by Michael on August 2, 2023 at 10:33 pm

    2007 Victory Hammer with 23,000 miles on it. Battery died while riding, replaced battery, but now… Bike will start but stalls when it feels like it, inconsistent idle, popping and cracking.

    What I know… Compression is 180psi in each cylinder, fuel pressure is 51-52psi, battery good/new, spark plugs go black quickly, some black smoke from tailpipes, tested rectifier and stator (both good), have good spark (tested), wiring harness looks great, crankshaft position sensor readings 1.73 kiloohm (doesn’t seem right), performed the throttle reset procedure a few times, saw a p1101 code on scan tool, small sensor between cylinders look good ( no corrosion or wire breaks but don’t know how to test it), oil is clean/new and filled appropriately.

    Starts, stalls, runs like garbage. Totally at a loss. Speed sensor is also hosed, but that never seemed to matter other than intermittent speedo functionality. Thoughts?

    Rylan replied 8 months, 2 weeks ago 2 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • Rylan

    August 3, 2023 at 6:38 am

    I would try to determine why the battery went bad.

    If you started the season with a good battery, rode all year, then one day it goes dead, that indicates to me something is wrong with the bike’s charging system, most likely the regulator.

    Or another scenario is that the bike sat for a long time and that’s what killed the battery. Charging up a dead battery and hoping it works would not be a good idea.

    The key to fixing it correctly is in the history of the bike.

    • This reply was modified 9 months, 3 weeks ago by  Rylan.
    • Rylan

      August 3, 2023 at 6:44 am
      • Michael

        August 6, 2023 at 2:30 pm

        I originally thought it was a parasitic draw from the former owner’s led light kit. As the light kit was not working properly, I removed it from the equation, bringing the only aftermarket wiring down to the Witchdoctors LED converter for rear LED tail light.

        When I tested the stator originally I saw that across AB, AC, BC I was getting a consistent .03 or .3 resistance. I know that those numbers need to be very similar across each winding and since it was, I determined, at the time, that it was sound. I also tested to make sure that it wasn’t gounding out, and it passed. I tested the rectifier, and here is where I screwed up. The forward/positive bias tested properly, the reverse/negative bias tested properly, but what i didn’t test until after the fact was the forward/positive bias with the probes switched. That’s where, all of a sudden I didn’t get a reading and I should have. I then tested the stator with the bike running, which was a task in and of itself, only to find out that the stator was barely putting out any voltage at all and when everything was connected back together properly, the battery was at 12.6v and dropping, even with the throttle up. It would every so often jump to 14.4v but would quickly drop back to 12.5v. This 14.4v was a reading I had seen much earlier in the diagnosis and where I screwed up was not leaving the meter on long enough to realize there was an issue and that the 14.4v was not consistent.

        I removed the stator from the bike to visually inspect it to find out that it is not in the best shape. Corrosion on every winding terminal and in other areas as well. I have since purchased a new rectifier and stator and I am awaiting their arrival this week. I will be back with more information, though I am wondering how important voltage is on fuel injected bikes. My impression is that it is very important, especially as it relates to keeping proper fuel pressure to the injectors. Maybe the charging system issues are what is causing the rough idle and the stalling. Time will tell.

  • Michael

    August 30, 2023 at 6:57 pm

    Okay, so here is where we find ourselves.

    The stator and the rectifier were both bad I replaced them and now I am getting 14.4 volts as I should.

    I took the bike to a mechanic shop and he figured out pretty quickly that only the front cylinder was popping. He replaced the spark plug wires with a set of Harley-Davidson wires and the popping stopped.

    This is where we start uncovering other issues. He put the bike on a scanner and checked all of the systems. What he found was that The air intake sensor was reading 200°, the throttle positioning sensor was sending little to no data or it was sporadic and it was not receiving any information whatsoever from the engine temperature sensor. The bike currently runs and starts however it now stalls during idle but runs fairly well on open throttle except when you dump the throttle and the bike starts popping ferociously. He told me that that is as a result of the TPS giving incorrect data and therefore not giving the bike the proper amount of fuel. He also tested my coils and determine that they were working very well.

    He currently believes that those three sensors are either bad or that the ECU is bad but mentioned that there isn’t a proper way of testing the ECU to determine if in fact it’s bad.

    This is the current state of things, does anyone have any thoughts?

  • Rylan

    September 3, 2023 at 8:02 am

    Try an ecm from a known good bike.

  • Michael

    September 4, 2023 at 10:59 am

    Any notion as to where to find such a thing? I’d like to borrow one, can collateralize while testing, if someone has one…

    • Rylan

      September 8, 2023 at 4:53 am


      Victory used the same ECM from 2002 to 2007.