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V92sc speedometer sim-1a issues
Posted by Theodore on May 6, 2025 at 9:22 pmI installed an 03 hammer engine in a 2000 V92sc and attempted to wire in a Sim-1a.
Pervious to the engine swap the speedo worked as expected.
It hasn’t worked since. I checked my wires and I have power and grounds where I should, but the signal wire… I think is having an issue. The vehicle side more specifically. I have about 9.5 ish volts on the signal wire unplugged from the sensor.
Anyone every run into this or have a suggestion about what to do?
Thanks in advance.
Rylan replied 1 week, 3 days ago 2 Members · 10 Replies -
10 Replies
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Actually… Neutral light hasn’t worked and neither has the auto canceling turn signals… Or I haven’t noticed them working…
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Sounds like you have bigger issues seeing how multiple components as well as the speed sensor are not working. I couldn’t tell you where to look next, but a thorough visual inspection of the wire harness might be in order.
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Spent a bunch more time in the manual. Sorry for being lazy 😂 inlay isn’t really an option.
I tested for voltage to Pin 1 on the auto canceling module. It’s constantly at 5.22v even with the speed sensor and sim unplugged. Manuel says between .6v and 5v when it’s spinning, but doesn’t say what to do if it’s out of spec like this…
But right now I have 5.22v at the canceller. I tried pulling the relay and that didn’t change anything. The really weird part about this is that it was 9.22 before I started messing around with things today…
Any thoughts on where I should go next? I’m digging through the manual and will update if I find another step.
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I still think you have a damaged wire. You said “speedo worked great until I swapped the engine” and I assume that the turn signals and neutral light also worked before you swapped the engine?
If everything works great, then you take the bike apart and put it back together again, and now you have three electrical components that no longer work – logic dictates it had something to do with the work that was done. Experience tells me that the most likely reason for multiple electrical systems to not work after extensive repairs were performed is that a wire or wires were damaged.
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I don’t disagree… I just have no idea where to start. The manual isn’t great on wiring.
Can you confirm that I should have power on the red wire, ground on the black and signal when the wheel is turning on the white? I get no signal variation on either the signal or ground (a friend recommended I check to see if the ground actually has the signal from the sensor while it’s spinning… It didn’t change). Seems like maybe the speed sensor is dead?
Can I test the sensor external of the bike?
Could a bad neutral switch in the engine cause this? Or a bad ground? The only grounds I see is the one from the battery to the frame (below the battery) and one that goes into the wiring harness. (The voltage regulator grounds out on the frame I assume) On a vehicle engine is expect to see a ground to the engine itself… Even most other bikes I’ve owned, but I don’t seem to have that.
In all of this frustration the good news is that the bike runs great. For now anyways….
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You wouldnt happen to have a pin out on the speedometer? Im debating just running an inlay wire.
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I would start with a visual inspection. The most common pinch point is the rear engine mount. Where the harness goes near the mount and frame.
I don’t ever get into the weeds and do things like harness and sensor pinouts. In 99% of the cases like this a visual inspection uncovers the bad area of the harness. Sure, I suppose it’s possible that a wire broke *inside* the harness, completely on its own, due only to you rustling it around when doing the engine swap, but that would be pretty rare. And sure, a sensor or electrical component (or three in this case) may just happened to go bad on the exact day you take the engine out of the frame, but the chances are pretty slim.
I won’t be able to tell you what color wire does what, and what its resistance and voltage should be, it’s just too into the weeds for me. I’d have to sit down with the bike and the wiring diagram. Start ringing up an invoice. But I can tell you that many of the times I’ve seen the kind of scenario you’re describing – it’s been a damaged wire that I was able to find with just my eyes and a flashlight.
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Following up… The ground makes the light turn on, but now it’s on all the time and the speedo and self cancellers still don’t work…
So finger crossed if I find the end this was supposed to go into… My problem may be solved.
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Well you nailed it. Found a ground tucked back there. No idea where it’s actually supposed to go, but I’ve got it reattached to the frame and at least the neutral switch works again. speedo is still out and I haven’t tested the auto canceling…. But I’d suspect that works now.
Hopefully the speedo is just a wiring issue with the Sim-1a.
Thanks for talking me through it and reenforcing another check of the harness… It was probably the 4th time I looked back there.